Longyearbyen : Svalbard : North Pole

You can go to the actual geographic North Pole, if you really want. It is incredibly expensive, involves helicopters, and there is literally nothing there except for the satisfaction of being on top of the world, literally.

If I were rich, that is what I would do… freaky.

The next best option, and very affordable, is to take a scheduled flight to Svalbard, an archipelago to the north of Norway (the name of which means The Northern Way).

On the island of Spitsbergen is the only proper town up that way, Longyearbyen (pop. 2400). It holds the record for so many “most northern thing” that you lose count. Graveyard, church, pub…While there are a handful of settlements closer to the North Pole, they are all scientific or mining sites and not accessible to the public.

Fortunately the most northernmost town worth mentioning is also incredibly accessible. You can fly direct from Oslo. It isn’t overly expensive. The views near arrival are jaw-dropping. The sense of remoteness is wonderful.

Note: although administered by Norway, it is a bit like the South Pole – not owned by anyone. So when flying there you technically leave Norway (and you can’t take liquids on board).

Getting there via Norway can be a barrier for some, because you need a visa for Norway (although the Russian army turns up occasionally, using their own means), however anyone can choose to live there – it is like a Wild West, a new frontier. The only caveat is that you must be able to support yourself, so being an online entrepreneur is fine.

I say Wild West because of the number of guns. Polar bears are a genuine threat, especially now we have climate change and they might be hungry. Also, recently, Longyearbyen had a fatal avalanche, in the town. Where it happened is starkly apparent.

The supermarket has a place for your guns to park while you shop. You turn up on your skimobile, park your gun, buy groceries.

Prices, considering the remoteness, are not bad. Fresh produce was not a problem. Food and drink in bars and restaurants are a bit pricey, but accomodation is not too bad.

But when you walk around (the town is spread out but walkable) and breathe in the crisp air, see the incredible sky colours, the stark surroundings, and maybe the Northern Lights, a few pricey meals are irrelevant. This is an easy extreme.

The town itself is well worth a few days – wining and dining – but also just sensing what it is like for the permanent residents to be there.

EXTREME TEMPERATURE? Not really. Up to 7 degrees Celsius in summer and -10 in winter. A heavy jacket, long johns and gloves are all you need. Take nice socks, the bars and restaurants are all shoes-off.

EXTREME DISCOMFORT? No. It is a very civilised place, and everyone speaks English.

EXTREME NORTH? Yes, that is the primary achievement. You are deep inside the Arctic Circle. I tell people I went to North Pole (and then they say what? the actual pole? and then I qualify it…)

EXTREME ACTIVITIES? Yes, to a degree. There are many weird and wonderful guided treks and tours that highlight the remoteness and the different flora and fauna and sky displays. Research when the Northern Lights are most likely and you have a good chance of seeing them.

EXTREME LIGHT / DARK? Hell yeah! If 24 hours of night, or 24 hours of day appeals to you, this is the place. Over 100 days of each! For me the start of the polar night has the most extraordinary coloured sky… well, even the air had a blue tinge. It isn’t pitch black during the day, as the Sun is only just below the horizon, so you can see, just not see the Sun.

BONUS EXTRA? At the start of the polar night is the Dark Season Blues Festival (I’m not joking, the place looks blue). Many quality, international artists, keen to add somewhere exotic to their resume. The venues are mostly small and intimate, except for the main hall which fits everyone who is there for the music – a few hundred. The festival is accessible and intimate, a place to make friends and meet artists.

ANOTHER BONUS EXTRA? Go to Pyramiden. You can get there by ship, on an all day tour. The journey might gift the Aurora Borealis for you. You might see whales. You might eat whales (BBQ whale is sold on some tours). The town is an abandoned Russian mining town, perfectly preserved in the permafrost. But not any old mining town, it was a demonstration of Russian might and culture. Think Olympic sized swimming pool and cinema and giant statues. It is a freaky, unique place. And the tour guide carries a rifle in case polar bears turn up.